Which version should I buy? And should I go for the 1.5T, 1.2, or 1.8 engine? It's for a female commuting 16 kilometers round trip. With an initial payment of 50,000, how much would the monthly payments be over 2 or 3 years?

Choosing your first performance car is an exciting decision! Here's a brief rundown of your options: 1. **2003 Subaru Impreza STI**: Known for its rally heritage, it's great for all-weather performance and has a strong AWD system. However, it might be older in terms of technology and features. 2. **2013 Toyota 86**: Offers a balanced rear-wheel-drive experience, known for its handling and driving fun. It's a bit less powerful but very engaging to drive. 3. **2014 Ford Fiesta ST**: A fun, nimble, and affordable hot hatch. It's smaller and great for city driving, with a lively turbocharged engine. 4. **2014 Volkswagen Golf GTI**: A well-rounded hatchback that combines performance with practicality. It's comfortable for daily driving and has a strong community and aftermarket support. 5. **2004 Mitsubishi EVO 8**: Another rally-inspired choice, with strong performance and an AWD system similar to the STI. It may require more maintenance due to its age. Your choice should depend on what you value most—whether it's all-wheel-drive performance, rear-wheel-drive dynamics, or a mix of practicality and fun. Also, consider maintenance costs, reliability, and availability of parts for these older models.

Asking fellow car enthusiasts a question here. If I have a budget of 1 million and can save 100k per month, should I buy a McLaren 720s or a Lamborghini? Please help recommend which one would make the down payment and monthly payments less stressful for me.

I recently got an 08 Mazda 2 hatchback, 1.3L automatic. It has been driven 130,000 km over 15 years. I've been driving it for about 10 days, mostly commuting in the city with a round trip of 40 km a day, but the fuel consumption is ridiculously high... After the fuel warning light first came on, I added fuel worth 200 yuan, which was 25.6 liters, and drove a total of 247 km. The average fuel consumption was 10.35 liters/km, costing 0.8 yuan/km. After the fuel warning light, the engine light turned yellow as well, what's going on??? I didn't think too much and just drove to the gas station, asked the staff to fill it up, but it could only take 34 liters before the pump stopped. The staff said it was full. Isn't the Mazda 2's fuel tank capacity supposed to be 43 liters? Why is it full so much earlier, is there something wrong? Looking for help, how should I deal with this? Has anyone experienced the same situation?

How to connect Bluetooth on Jeep Compass, step-by-step: 1. Turn on the Jeep Compass and ensure that your Bluetooth device is also turned on and discoverable. 2. On the vehicle's infotainment system, navigate to the Bluetooth settings menu. This is usually found under "Settings" or "Phone" options. 3. Select "Add Device" or "Pair New Device" from the Bluetooth menu. 4. On your Bluetooth device (like a smartphone), go to the Bluetooth settings and search for new devices. 5. When you see "Jeep Compass" or a similar name appear in the list of available devices, select it to initiate the pairing process. 6. A confirmation code might appear on both the infotainment screen and your device. Ensure the codes match and confirm the pairing on both the vehicle and your device. 7. Once paired, your device should connect automatically whenever you start the vehicle in the future, as long as Bluetooth is enabled on your device. If you encounter issues, make sure both the vehicle and device have the latest software updates, and try restarting both if necessary.

I'm considering buying a used diesel Grand Cherokee with a budget of around 150,000. My budget is limited, and as a working-class individual, I'm considering diesel for its fuel efficiency. I'm currently driving a 2.0T Mondeo, and the fuel consumption for commuting is 11 liters per 100 km. My concern is that some people say diesel engines are unstable and have high maintenance costs later on. My driving scenario is mainly commuting to work, with a daily round trip of 20 km. I’m also thinking about long-distance travel with my family during holidays. I’d love to hear from actual owners about their experiences and what I should pay attention to when making a choice. Thank you very much.

With a monthly income of 8000 and a down payment of 50,000, there shouldn't be too much pressure on the monthly payments, right?

Should I choose the Haval or bite the bullet and go for the Explorer? I'm 40, work in a stable job, don't smoke or drink, and love driving. Whenever I go out with friends, I'm the one driving, and I enjoy it even if it's a five or six-hour drive. I don't feel tired. I usually commute alone, about 20 kilometers round trip. Rationally, I should prioritize family and choose the Haval. It's not much fun to drive, but it's cheaper and comfortable for the family. But there's a little devil on my shoulder saying: Go for the Explorer, there aren't many days left to indulge in what you love. Most of the time, you're driving alone, so why not get something you truly enjoy? You only go on trips a few times a year. Brothers, any advice?

Help Needed: 2011 Nissan Sunny Low-End to High-End Instrument Panel Upgrade Issue At first: As shown in the picture, I bought a 2012 luxury version of the Sunny instrument panel. I removed the wires from the low-end panel and connected them according to the high-end socket order. Because I enlarged the wire holes when removing them, it led to poor contact. Initially, everything was normal except the fuel gauge didn't display. Could it be due to poor contact? Then, I reconnected the original low-end instrument panel, which led to the time, trip mileage, and fuel consumption resetting every time I started the car. Finally, I got another high-end socket. This time, I arranged the wire order for the high-end socket first, then connected wires from the low-end socket to the high-end socket (this method avoids enlarging the socket and causing poor contact). Now I'm stuck with the following issues: 1. The engine light is on. 2. The turn signal, headlight, and fog light indicators on the instrument panel don't light up, and there's no ticking sound when using the turn signal. 3. Each time I start the car, the time, average fuel consumption, and trip mileage reset. 4. After turning off the car, the tachometer stays at 1, then drops to 0 and returns to 1 when the car is started again, which seems normal. Everything else seems normal. Could fellow forum members help analyze what the problem might be? I'm almost crying.

After 8 years with my old petrol car, it started burning oil, and I noticed a lot of people around me were switching to electric vehicles. That got me thinking. I was originally planning to get the top-spec Tank 300 (Menglong), and during the National Day holiday I went for a test drive — it met my expectations.On the way back, I stopped by a Jetour dealership and saw the T2. My daughter instantly fell in love with the exterior and interior — it completely overshadowed the Menglong in her eyes. Looks clearly played a big role, and after a test drive, it felt good enough. Since I don’t really need 4WD for daily driving, I booked it right away. Looking back now, I do wish I had waited for the 4WD version — a bit more power would’ve been nice.For this type of vehicle, electric power saves a lot. For daily use, my cost is just around 0.10 AED/km (charging at home on off-peak rates of 3.3 AED/kWh). My daily round-trip to work is under 20 km, so I only charge every four days, when the battery hits around 20%.For long-distance trips, I don’t bother with charging — it’s too much hassle. I just set the car to preserve 60% battery and drive on petrol. Even if fuel consumption is slightly higher, it’s fine since I only do a few road trips per year.The car is heavy and feels solid on the road. Acceleration is decent, but the 4WD version definitely would’ve offered better power and confidence. I’ve had the car for over half a year now. So far, the only issue has been a slight noise from the steering system — which was fixed. Other than that, no major problems. Buying a car always involves a bit of luck anyway.The biggest downside is the driver assistance system — it lags behind the competition. The infotainment system has improved a bit with the latest 4.11 update, but it still has room for improvement.Overall, I’m quite satisfied. Compared to many newer EV startups, Chery is an established brand. The lifetime warranty adds a lot of peace of mind, especially on the powertrain and electric components.

To be honest, I didn’t buy the Corolla out of strong conviction at first. Back in April, I quickly bought a used car from the local market before the Eid holidays. Turned out to be a total disaster. I was in a rush and didn’t have time to go to a mechanic or deal with any hassle, so I drove it for a bit, sold it, and moved on. After that, I decided I wanted to buy something brand new, something I could stick with for 10 years without any headaches. I liked the look of both the Civic and the Corolla. I went to check them out, and while the Civic was really impressive, it was a bit too expensive—so I settled on the Corolla. Overall, the car is smooth and comfortable to drive. But when you're on an incline or waiting at a light on an uphill road, you can feel it struggle to get going—you have to press the gas harder, and the engine gets louder without the car really moving much. The front seats are good, but the rear bench isn’t very spacious. I was honestly disappointed to find that the rear seats don’t fold down, so if you want to carry large items, you’re out of luck. As for fuel consumption—those people claiming 5L/100km, I honestly don’t know how they’re getting that. In the city, I’ve been getting around 6.8 to 7.2, and I’m not a heavy-footed driver. From February 2 to early April, I drove about 4,600 km because I was using it for errands after work and even took a long round trip to Alexandria. One thing I really noticed is that the car doesn’t handle rough roads well—you really feel the bumps. In traffic, sometimes the car shakes a bit when moving slowly around 10 or 15 km/h—not always, but it happens. There's also a faint squeaking noise, like the A/C button is slightly loose—it only shows up on bumpy roads. Still, none of this changes the fact that the car is generally reliable and stable. It drives easily, and honestly, I’m quite content with it—especially after what I went through with that used car. For anyone thinking about getting a Corolla, just be realistic about what you’re looking for. It’s a great car for someone who wants something long-lasting, even if there are a few things that aren’t perfect.