When starting, there's a noticeable vibration, but the higher the speed, the less the vibration. There's no vibration when coasting, but as soon as you accelerate, you feel it, especially at lower speeds. Why is that? There's no unusual noise. I've already replaced the left half axle, engine mounts, and recently changed the tires and ignition coils. The repair shop says it's an issue with the transmission and it needs repairs. Is that true? 😮‍💨

I own a 2014 SsangYong Korando, 2WD high trim, 2.0 gasoline. Recently, the check engine light occasionally turns on with the error code indicating a misfire in cylinder 1. Sometimes it turns off by itself. I've swapped spark plugs between cylinder 1 and 2, ignition coils between cylinder 1 and 3, and even swapped the injectors. I planned to use elimination to check if it's the injector issue, but after each swap, the misfire code for cylinder 1 still comes back eventually! The engine idles with slight vibrations, but I don't feel any power loss on the highway—it easily goes over 160 km/h. Later, I measured the cylinder pressure: cylinder 1 is at 8 kg, while the others are over 10 kg. After researching online, I suspect it's an exhaust valve issue. Now I'm really torn. Should I just let it be, or go for a major repair? I read online that some people can fix it by opening the cylinder head without removing the engine. But the local big auto shop is no more, and the private mechanic suggests removing the engine, which I really don't want to do—worried it won't fit back as perfectly as the original. It's stressful because I bought this as a first car for my father, who has loved cars all his life, and now this happens. I've been to various places without a clear diagnosis. Some say it's slight cylinder wear, some say valve leakage, and others mention cylinder head design flaws. Any advice from fellow Korando owners on how to solve similar issues would be greatly appreciated!

When coming to a stop, the idle speed suddenly drops and it feels like the car is about to stall. This occasionally happens when shifting from D to P while stationary. I've replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, injectors, high-pressure fuel pump, PCV valve, carbon canister solenoid, air flow sensor, and engine mounts. I've also cleaned the intake carbon deposits and combustion chamber carbon deposits. The problem still exists. Can anyone help me figure this out? [crying][crying][crying][crying]

Model X, 40,000 km. There's a consistent humming noise from the rear wheels while driving, most noticeable at speeds of 35-40 km/h. You can feel a slight vibration in the floor when sitting in the back seat. I've been to the dealership a couple of times for this, and the last time, the technician confirmed the noise. After checking, they said the half axles are fine and concluded it's due to tire aging. I've heard that 21-inch tires tend to wear unevenly and might need replacement around 40,000 km. The tires only have 40,000 km on them, and the tread still looks clear. Is this really possible?

2010 Changan Yuexiang, experiencing body vibration at low speed and low RPMs. The symptom disappears at higher speeds. What could be the issue? Is it the valves or are the engine mounts worn out?

When starting, there's a noticeable vibration, but the higher the speed, the less the vibration. There's no vibration when coasting, but as soon as you accelerate, you feel it, especially at lower speeds. Why is that? There's no unusual noise. I've already replaced the left half axle, engine mounts, and recently changed the tires and ignition coils. The repair shop says it's an issue with the transmission and it needs repairs. Is that true? 😮‍💨

My car was registered in 2018 and has just over 10,000 kilometers. It's been in the repair shop for half a month now. They said it's the electronic rocker arm that's broken. First, they tried replacing the spark plugs, but that didn't work. The ignition coil didn't work, and neither did the injectors. Then they said it's the electronic rocker arm. Wow, it costs 12,000. Sigh, they suggested I replace the engine, which is around 15,000. I don't even know what to do. This car isn't worth 50,000 now, and fixing it costs over 10,000.

If your 2010 Suzuki Swift 1.5 automatic is still shaking after replacing the spark plugs, ignition coils, PCV valve, and EGR valve, there could be other issues at play. Some potential causes could be: - Engine mounts: Worn or damaged engine mounts can cause vibrations. - Fuel injectors: Clogged or malfunctioning fuel injectors can lead to engine misfires. - Throttle body: A dirty or faulty throttle body can affect engine performance. - Air intake system: Check for any leaks or blockages in the air intake system. - Transmission issues: Problems with the transmission can also cause vibrations. You may want to consult a professional mechanic to diagnose the issue more accurately.

When starting a cold car, the idle speed takes 5-6 minutes to drop below 1000 RPM, and the engine vibrates. I thought the throttle was dirty, cleaned it, but it didn't help. The oxygen sensor current shows -0.01 mA. The repair shop says it's fine, but I feel like there's an issue. What could be causing this?

I had the chance to try out the new Toyota Corolla, the 1.2T Elite version. Honestly, there aren’t many changes in the design compared to the previous generation, but I thought I’d share my thoughts anyway. The engine performance isn’t particularly strong — 116 horsepower on a car this size is just acceptable. But when you push it and let the RPMs climb, it actually feels better than expected. It’s not slow, and it feels lighter than I thought it would. The CVT gearbox is smooth and decent overall, although at low speeds there are some light vibrations and a bit of drag when you lift off the throttle. When you demand sudden acceleration, it takes a little time to reach the higher revs, but it’s not annoying. The suspension handles big bumps well, but you can feel smaller imperfections in the road, especially at lower speeds. On curves and sharp turns, the car holds itself pretty well and stays composed — that was a nice surprise. The steering is great. It’s light at low speeds and firms up nicely as you go faster. The response is smooth and precise, and the brakes are easy to get used to and feel very natural — no issues there. Noise insulation is average. Wind noise is handled well, and the engine isn’t too loud, even at high RPMs — that’s actually better than the hybrid version. But road noise does come through at higher speeds, and ambient noise isolation is just okay. Inside, the design hasn’t changed much — it still feels quite basic. The materials aren’t great; most of the interior is hard plastic. The screen and instrument panel haven’t been upgraded like in the 1.5 or hybrid versions. The infotainment system is slow and outdated — not what you'd expect in a 2024 model. Front seating is fine — you can adjust the driver’s seat to a comfortable low position and the steering wheel aligns well with it. The back seats, however, aren’t great. The space is average, the seatback is a bit upright, and the cushion isn’t very long. The trunk, on the other hand, is decent and handles luggage well. In terms of safety features, you do get useful tools like radar and driving assist, but there’s no rear parking sensor — which is strange. Overall, the car isn’t lacking in features, but the priorities feel a bit off. In the end, this car doesn’t really surprise you — and that might actually be a good thing for people who prefer something reliable and familiar. It’s not futuristic, but if you’re after dependability and ease of use, it could still be a smart choice — especially with how crowded the market is becoming with hybrids and EVs. Ultimately, it depends on your needs and your budget at the time of buying.