Navara 2019 model, currently has over 60,000 kilometers. When changing the spark plugs, there was oil in the cylinders. The 4S technician said the valve cover needs to be replaced due to internal leakage and should be replaced together. I want to ask everyone, is this a common issue with the Navara?

10 Mazda 3 Star Version 2.0 frequently has the warning light on, with an instant fuel consumption of 30-40 at startup. Spark plugs, intake manifold solenoid valve, rear oxygen sensor have been replaced, throttle body and mass air flow sensor have been cleaned, but the light comes on again. The first row mixture is too lean. Any suggestions?

Maintenance guide for the 2007 Opel Astra: 1. **Regular Oil Changes**: Ensure you change the engine oil and oil filter every 5,000 to 7,500 miles to keep the engine running smoothly. 2. **Brake System Check**: Inspect brake pads and discs regularly, approximately every 10,000 miles, and replace them as needed to ensure safety. 3. **Tire Maintenance**: Check tire pressure monthly and rotate tires every 6,000 to 8,000 miles to ensure even wear and prolong tire life. 4. **Air Filter Replacement**: Replace the air filter every 15,000 to 30,000 miles to maintain optimal engine performance. 5. **Coolant Level**: Check and top off the coolant level regularly to prevent the engine from overheating. 6. **Battery Check**: Ensure the battery terminals are clean and the battery is functioning properly, especially before winter. 7. **Transmission Fluid**: Inspect and, if necessary, replace the transmission fluid every 30,000 to 60,000 miles to ensure smooth gear shifts. 8. **Spark Plugs**: Replace spark plugs every 30,000 miles to maintain fuel efficiency and engine performance. 9. **Suspension and Steering**: Regularly inspect the suspension and steering components to ensure a comfortable and safe ride. By adhering to this maintenance schedule, you can help ensure your 2007 Opel Astra continues to perform reliably.

When coming to a stop, the idle speed suddenly drops and it feels like the car is about to stall. This occasionally happens when shifting from D to P while stationary. I've replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, injectors, high-pressure fuel pump, PCV valve, carbon canister solenoid, air flow sensor, and engine mounts. I've also cleaned the intake carbon deposits and combustion chamber carbon deposits. The problem still exists. Can anyone help me figure this out? [crying][crying][crying][crying]

Hello everyone, has anyone experienced this with the 2019 model 35p automatic? Currently, I've driven 60,000 kilometers, and occasionally when I brake at a red light, the idle speed fluctuates. How did you deal with it? I've cleaned the throttle and replaced the spark plugs, but I still don't know why it's happening.

I've got a 2013 Kia Sportage Manual GL 2.0, and the steering wheel shakes when idling. I've cleaned the carbon buildup in the engine cylinders, the injectors, and the idle valve. I also replaced the spark plugs and engine mounts last year. Any experts out there have any advice?

Navara 2019 model, currently has over 60,000 kilometers. When changing the spark plugs, there was oil in the cylinders. The 4S technician said the valve cover needs to be replaced due to internal leakage and should be replaced together. I want to ask everyone, is this a common issue with the Navara?

Model X, 40,000 km. There's a consistent humming noise from the rear wheels while driving, most noticeable at speeds of 35-40 km/h. You can feel a slight vibration in the floor when sitting in the back seat. I've been to the dealership a couple of times for this, and the last time, the technician confirmed the noise. After checking, they said the half axles are fine and concluded it's due to tire aging. I've heard that 21-inch tires tend to wear unevenly and might need replacement around 40,000 km. The tires only have 40,000 km on them, and the tread still looks clear. Is this really possible?

The engine fault code flashes at idle and stays on when starting. The fault indicates a misfire in cylinder two. After replacing the ignition coil and spark plugs, and cleaning the injectors, the fault code disappeared but returned after two days. Do you know what might be causing this?

If your 2010 Suzuki Swift 1.5 automatic is still shaking after replacing the spark plugs, ignition coils, PCV valve, and EGR valve, there could be other issues at play. Some potential causes could be: - Engine mounts: Worn or damaged engine mounts can cause vibrations. - Fuel injectors: Clogged or malfunctioning fuel injectors can lead to engine misfires. - Throttle body: A dirty or faulty throttle body can affect engine performance. - Air intake system: Check for any leaks or blockages in the air intake system. - Transmission issues: Problems with the transmission can also cause vibrations. You may want to consult a professional mechanic to diagnose the issue more accurately.

I bought a used Nissan Sunny in 2018—it was a 2015 model, and I was the second owner. I paid 160,000 EGP for it. When I got it, the odometer showed 60,000 km, but it was obvious they had tampered with it—just by looking at the tires and other details. Still, at the time I just needed a car to get me around. The first year with the car was honestly a pleasant surprise. Fuel consumption was excellent—even with a bit of aggressive driving, it was doing about 6L/100km. That was after I cleaned the injectors, changed the spark plugs, and washed the sensors. After that, the throttle response was smoother and performance improved. One time, I managed 700 km on a single tank—but that was rare. Usually, it did just over 600. Interestingly, it consumed more fuel on the highway than in the city, which is a bit odd but shows it's built more for short urban trips. Driving it was light and smooth. The steering was soft but had a decent return, the suspension was soft but not too floaty, and even though the car is lightweight, it felt more planted than I expected. Honestly, it’s one of the most comfortable cars I’ve ever driven. The interior space is amazing. From the outside, it looks small, but inside it feels like a full-size sedan. Nissan clearly prioritized passenger space—they shrunk the hood and dashboard, which is great, but comes at a cost. The insulation is terrible—you hear road and wind noise like you're riding a tuk-tuk. And the bodywork is so thin, it feels like you could crush it with your hands. Put your foot in the wrong spot, and it feels like you'll puncture the floor. There were also a few issues: the stereo was poor, I had to replace the A/C motor, and I still get some strange noises. But in the end, I see the Nissan Sunny as a very basic car that offers comfort, space, and ease of use—but at the expense of build quality, sound insulation, and overall sturdiness. If you're on a tight budget and just need something to get you through your daily drives without asking much, it’s a logical choice. But if you’re looking for luxury or durability... look elsewhere.